Sunday, May 25, 2008
Vilnius, the 3 Hour Tour
5.25-- I decided to skip Poland, and to hang out with my friend Maria
who lives there with her husband Miguel.
It was a little sad directing away from the plan (felt like a little
failure), but the mail system from the Baltic States to the US is not
reliable-- and I thought it would be nice to hang out with a good
friend while I camped out and waited for my bank card replacement. I
will hop on a plane back to somehere when I get myself sorted out.
That left 3 hours to see Vilnius, and I hit the road by 8am to see
some sights. Vilnius is lovely, and I am glad I hustled to see it.
Eurovision
group to watch the Eurovision competition, which is basically like the
Olympics of super-gay song performance. All 53 E.U. countries submit
and perform an original song, and compete for votes. It is wicked
campy, lots of crystal dresses and fan- blown hair. The hostelers were
holding a 2Litu ($1) betting pool on the winner, with each person
picking their country.
I chose Israel-- why?-- the U.S. always backs Israel.
I did not stick it out to the end, still have not learned who won.
Doubt it was Israel, those guys have been on a millenia-old losing
streak.
Culture Portal
straight into Vilnius to look at the baroque architecture and stroll
the Old Town. I did not. I went to a movie. Usually when I travel,
at some point I break down and see a bad movie. There is something
about it that is like a portal to America, this utterly familar place
with the stupid bathroom humor and cheesy physical comedy. The line
below is for the opening of Indiana Jones, which sold out-- I ended up
at What Happens in Vegas, Stays in Vegas. It was terrible, but I got
to laugh for the first time that day.
Akropolis
to pick up my wire. It was basically a huge tin hangar that had been
outfitted to the hilt with shopping and activities. Easily would put
the average American mall to shame. There were dining sections made
to look like Venice, gelato vendors, a whole spa and sauna section.
In the middle if the place, there was an ice skating rink, with cafes
and restaurants looking down on it. I would hazard a guess that
capitalism is now firmly rooted here, only 18 years post independence.
Americanis Retardus
stupid. I left Jurmala and got on a bus to Vilnius (Lithuania) that
was arriving at about 10pm. That was stupid move #1. Having fully
lost track of schedule, I did this on a Friday. Stupid move #2.
After hauling ass from the bus station and into Old Town and hitting
up some hostels and hotels, it started to dawn on me that arriving
into a new town, late, on a Friday, at the start of the summer travel
season was a pretty shit idea. Everything was booked to the hilt. A
nice receptionist at a full hotel took pity on me, and started to call
around on my behalf. Eventually he located something outside of town
that had a free room for a totally outrageous fee. It was midnight at
this point, and I was happy to solve this problem with cash and
readily hopped into a cab. When I got to "The Flamingo", my little
hotel, the guy at the door took a look at me and just told me to go
and sleep, and to settle in bill in the AM-- which was the first of
many nice things that this hotel would do for me.
The next morning I woke up early and packed my knapsack, ready to get
to a cheaper, more central location, and to see the city. This marks
the occasion of stupid move #3, the most colossal and inane of all the
stupid moves, as this is when I discovered I had lost my bank card--my
one source of cash in Eastern Europe. To paint the picture a bit more
clearly, I am in Lithuania-- a country that nearly shuts down entirely
on the weekend (besides the clubs and shops, and restaurants). My
only credit card (Amex) is not accepted readily here-- only at the
most posh of hotels and retail shops, NEVER at a restaurant. I am in
a hotel that I have not paid for, and I have roughly 40 Litus in
cash-- about the equivalent of 14€, or 20 bucks. Also,
English...well, not so much here. Perfect.
My first reaction is, "Aww fuck, Alison is going to go nuts." She has
been sort of saintly about me taking this trip; understanding my need
to travel solo, doing all the house and pet chores (considerable work)
while I am gone, and I know she is worried that I will get into some
hairy situation-- and now here it is.
I tried earnestly to take care of shit before calling her for help.
Both Wells Fargo and Amex have free international calling numbers for
emergency situations, and BOTH of these companies have suspended this
service for Lithuania (Zimbabwe or American Samoa- no problem), which
I discovered after an hour of tinkering around on the iPhone, surely
burning up crazy roaming charges. The "I am super-super-fucked"
feeling is now beginning to set in.
I call Billings, it is nearly midnight in Seattle, the only reason she
hears me over the Sonicare is that Wyatt starts barking (thank you
puppy). Basically, Alison makes a bunch of calls, and manages not to
freak out on me, and within about 45 minutes a rep from American
Express is calling me. Before I continue on to wax rhapsodic about
how amazing Amex is, let me just mention that Wells Fargo was fully
unsympathetic, and told Alison there was nothing they could do-- there
was no number I could call, they would not call me, they had no
partners in Lithuania...blahblah. Basically, they were like: "she's
fucked, we have all her money, but we won't help". I am withdrawing
every penny I have in my various accounts as soon as I am in the US.
Screw you Wells Fargo, any shred of regret I have for not going to
work for you after B-school is so completely gone, I would rather sell
supositories door-to-door.l Amex, on the other hand- is basically
angelic. Jennifer, from Wisonsin, explains to me that they can make
an emergency wire transfer, and procedes to find the one and only
Western Union affiliate in all Lithuania that is operational on
Saturday. She offers to call me back, and does so repeatedly
throughout the day's adventures, making sure I am OK and that the
transaction happens smoothly. Alison, Jennifer, and AMEX-- I don't
know what I would have done without you, THANK YOU SO MUCH.
The people at the Flamingo were also really nice. After explaining my
situation, they agreed to reduce the nightly rate down to near-hostel
prices, and even offered to lend me cash so I could eat and get around
(this is when I thought I would have to wait until Mon. to get the
wire).
This was one of those times when people's graciousness and
friendliness is so overwhelming, it makes you want to step up and be a
better person. Hopefully I can live up to it.
Parting Meal
Chinese" restaurant. I ordered spring spring rolls, and got below.
They were filled with cabbage (unexpected, and yet expected) and fried
(unexpected, yet expected). The peanut suace seemed to be made of
peanuts, chili oil, and mayonaise. It was a nice break from the
cheesey bread routine, not sure I would do it again.
Last Day in Jurmala
me of Northport, where I lived all my teenage years. There was a
"strip" with cute shops, outdoor dining, and requisite packs of
teenagers strolling up and down-- clearly let loose of their parents
for the day, lots of checking each other out. There was even a cute
little carnival, which was especially nostalgic for me, my first job
(13) was as a carnie. Very formative.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Marshrutka
foreigners to travel, because you have to yell at the driver when you
want to stop. They are essentially minivans that drive around the city
ok a set route. I used a similar way to travel in Mexico (combi) when
I was a little sprite, trekking around with Julie P. I learned about
how they work here from Bryan in Russia, so I had a little mini lesson
with him there. In Latvia, they are a super economical and fast way
to get around. I paid the equivalent of eighty sense for a 25 mile
trip to the Baltic Sea. Latvia has been one of the first places on
the trip that has been less costly than travel in the US, hence it
being nice hotel and massage time.
Tulips at the Riga Market
the simple things needed for life has always interested me. I like
commerce at the most basic level. I also like watching interactions,
the displays, and the peculiar things. I have never tired of taking
visitors to Pike place market, I think it is a lovely place to spend
time, and I could care less if it is "touristy". Riga's central
market was pretty special as well. Gorgeous flowers, fruits and
veggies, hangars dedicated to dairy and meat. I stayed the night in a
converted hangar right outside the market, so I went in and out quite
a bit. I took this picture as I was leaving Riga, and heading to
Jurmala, a little resorts place on the Baltic sea. I booked a night
at a swanky place so I could get a massage, walk on the beach, and
hopefully find a working fax machine somehere in Latvia (needed to
reserve Paris accomodations).
I am Getting Tired of Pancakes
dinner. Sour cream is a must. Food is very heavy here, and when you
do order veggies or a salad-- everything is drenched in oil, and there
is a consiserable risk that it will be pre-dressed in sour cream or
mayonaise. Also, the veggies might be pickled. These here were
actually quite tasty. Latte in background, postcard to Billings in
foreground.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Fwd: E.E.H.- Kidstyle
Ok, isn't he saying: 'adopt me and take me to Seattle' with his eyes? Should have nabbed him.
Yum.
> at home. Not always physically lovely, but good. The market in
> Riga also delivered on the lovely.
>
Art Nouveau Detail
style. It is very pretty, and contrasts nicely with this super-urban,
sorta-seedy grit that the rest of the city gives off. It has real
live city energy here, but it is counter balanced by the gorgeous
parks and the cobblestone and the opera house. I like it here, but I
will be in my room before sundown-- not a place for midnight walking.
Cili Pizza
little spicy which was super-welcome.
Wheelchair Ramp
Another one I saw: the lights in the mall bathroom are neon blue:
why? Junkies can't find their veins. Also clever.
Tough Face
suit were of rolled-up wads of 100s, oversized glitter dollar signs,
and rolexes. He had boxer's ears and half a mouth of gold teeth. He
was like a combination of Mike Tyson and Liberace. He was also
carrying a duffel bag that was the brand "Attack Force" that had the
quote: 'what we need now is to open our minds to new experiences'.
Riga
are old Spviet-era hangars that have been converted into a central
market. I actually ended up sleeping in one that has been renovated
into a low-cost hotel.
I was a mess on the bus. I went to bed partial-drunk at 2:30am and
was getting ready for the bus at 5:30am. Another gentle reminder that
I am far from 20 anymore. I was quite pukey-- felt carsick and
crabby, but so sleepy and generally busted that I managed to pass
out. I was happy to get off that thing.
Gay Baar & Last Glimpse of Tallinn as I Leave for Latvia
dandy named Raiko, and his sweet best-ladyfriend named Marian. We had
some drinks, traded some stereotypes, and had a lovely night. I told
him I liked his hair, and he showed me that it was a wig. I said,
'well it looks good'. And he said: 'I know, it looks fabulous
darlink'. So cute. '
Bye lovely Estonia, I want to bring Alison to meet you someday.
Wooden Building & First Thoughts on Estonia
expectations for Estonia, and it turned out to be magical. It made me
want to grow my hair long, wear diaphonous robes, have babies and make
things on a loom. I expected to see carriages drawn by unicorns. The
REN-fair girls from Swellesley would love this place.
Helsinki to Estonia
These people are clean and efficient. It is such a contrast coming
from Russia. Everything is well-labeled, works on time, is translated
into English. The whole country looks like an Ikea catalog, but nicer-
quality. 2) All the parents here look young and hip, and all the kids
look like little indierockers. It makes me want a little hipster
child. 3) I have also noticed that younger kids walk around alone
here much more than you see in the US. And the girls ride their bikes
with earphones on close to midnight. I always forget that the US does
not really feel truly safe until I go somehere that does. Japan was
the same. Coming from Russia, which felt significantly *less* safe
than the US, Heksinki was a good transition.
I took a ferry to Tallinn, Estonia from Helsinki in the late
afternoon. This boat was like no other ferry I have ever seen. There
were multiple restaurants, a casino, an ice cream parlor, and a fully
equipped sound stage. The views were incredible. There were private
cabins. It was a very pleasant 2.5 hour journey. Yes TWO-POINT-FIVE
hours. Crazy.
I was quite prepared for a US-style ferry with hard seats and a
grilled cheese sandwhich and instant cocoa, so I was a bit caught off
gaurd when it had plush red carpets and toilet floors you could eat
off of. It also had wireless. Thank you Finns.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Kiasma
Helsinki's premier contemporary art museum-- 1960+. Lots of good stuff
there, and all in a really great building.
Flea Market
was a *real* flea market, the kind that forced you to hunt and peck. I
wandered around looking at people's old stuff, and found a cute belt.
That was all.
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